Love Letter for Portland

Dear Portland

Last Friday night, I sat back in my seat as US Airways 476 raced into the darkness on the runway. I'd been hoping for a miracle that this eventuality wouldn't occur, that the week wouldn't have a Friday, that this final departure would never actually happen. As the Airbus A320 lifted its wheels off the ground, gravity pulled a final stream of tears down my cheeks to say goodbye.

Six years ago, I came to you without a clue about the Pacific Northwest. I was young, fairly inexperienced, nervous, completely broke but thoroughly excited. I moved for a new job, a new life and liberation from months of uncertainty and unemployment. On that first night, I slept on the carpet in an empty 2-bedroom apartment in Wilsonville using some shirts as a pillow and my laptop to provide light. Over the next few weeks, I started discovering the sights, sounds and tastes which make you so unique. I spent over 3 hours transferring from a SMART bus to a Trimet connection at Washington Square to the Red Line MAX train so that I'd get an hour or so in town before I had to do it all over again to return home. If I had to do it all over again now, I'd do it in a flash.

Every minute I spent exploring your streets and neighborhoods brought me such joy, comfort and peace. When thoughts bogged my brain, I'd escape to the fantastic settings of the Rose Garden where I'd wander from blossom to blossom, letting their intoxicating fragrance and pristine beauty put every stress at ease. After an evening's smattering of rain, the trails in Washington Park were explosions of green, the air so crisp that I could spend hours here until dusk dropped a chilly blanket forcing me to seek a steaming latte.

How far did I need to go for that? Was there ever a dearth of fine local coffee shops in your city where coffee companies battled over flavor and baristas battled with their artwork? Specks of character made each of them unique in their own way. Vivace offered the best crepes but you taught me to start the day with a morning bun from Ken's Artisan Bakery. Coffee Time always featured the whackiest of characters discussing anything from mustache lengths to the colors of those random metal horses I'd find on the kerb in the Pearl district.

In spring, when I wasn't picking fresh lavender and pears at Hood River, I'd be poring over a copy of Travel Oregon, battered from the many roadtrips I made to discover all of your scenic byways. Perfect summer days called for runs at the waterfront where joggers, bikers and dogs crossed the Willamette on one of your many bridges. I lost count of the many street festivals I enjoyed, the food carts I stumbled upon, the eccentricities I discovered in every neighborhood and the million spots in town where I'd discover Mt.Hood looming majestically over everything.

But beyond all this, I found in your city a chance to grow, rather thrive. And thrive I did. With the Portland Gay Men's Chorus, I surrounded myself with over 150 amazing men and women who took me in like family. They lent me support, love and strength to fight tough battles. They taught me tolerance, acceptance and unconditional love. Volunteering at the Oregon Humane Society, I learned a new meaning for compassion and kindness.  Playing pub trivia with an eclectic mix of people, I found out more facts about USA and the world than Wikipedia could have ever taught me.

In your city, I learned to come out of my shell and explore the world outside. I learned to stand tall and not cower. I learned to love, cried over heartbreaks and learned to heal. I learned that money cannot buy everything, certainly not the magic of moments I experienced in laughter, idiocy, longing and bliss. I learned to laugh at myself. I learned to let best friends carry me and I learned to move on when they weren't around. I learned never to be ashamed of what I truly believed in. I learned that for every horrible person I met, I could think of at least 2 amazing friends who quickly reestablished my faith in humanity. I learned from a dog that there is such a thing as unconditional support and it could perform miracles in my darkest hour. I learned that the pure bliss of a single moment and the affection of a single person can completely numb the worst of pains and frustrations that life dealt out.I learned to pay forward the kindness I've enjoyed from people who owed me nothing. I learned to grow from a naive boy to a knowledgeable man.

When you have showered me with so many gifts, you may ask why I left you. In all honesty, I ask myself that every minute now. Know that I never wanted to, I was simply forced to. I dragged my feet away from you and those footprints were washed with tears. The distance between us is already long and it threatens to grow longer. The time period of this separation joins hands with distance. If life has yet another test for me, I hope again to learn from you how to conquer this.

Sitting here in Boston, a storm rages outside my window. In a way, I don't feel too differently from the many leaves that I see tossed around in the winds that howl relentlessly. But the worst of storms still subside by morning, don't they? Then I shall wait for that dawn when I can return to your loving arms.

The last time I visited the Rose Garden, I paused to admire the beauty of a particularly fragrant blossom. How many millions of hearts had been warmed by its beauty! How many millions of souls had been charmed by its grace! This little jewel resting on thorns had the power to arrest every person who visited, intoxicating them to return.

For me, you, Portland, shall be that simple rose sitting miles away and warming my heart on this cold night . To you, I will return and soon be reunited.

Fondest love

Vikram

Plea

Find me a way to soothe my heart
That he isn't the man I've always longed
Find me a way to find fault
That he isn't the perfection I now see
Find me a way to dismiss this bliss
That he gives me nothing I can't replace
Find me a way to stop falling so deep
That I may heal and love again
Find me a way to end my misery
For he gives me the sweetest of pains

Darling girl

2.31 AM.

I step into my apartment after returning from CCs. The smell of moving boxes hangs in the air, positively repulsive. I wait for a familiar jingling sound from the kitchen but the place is dead silent.

I go into the bedroom to change into my sleep wear. No pair of eyes follow me. I settle on the couch and stretch my legs on the rug. No soft coat slips beneath my feet. No furry head nuzzles its way up to my hands. No warm tongue licks my fingers to welcome me home.

Santa's new reindeer

I look towards her spot in the kitchen. I see the bed I bought over a year ago at Ross, unsure if she was going to take to it. I see the paw print Christmas ornament we made in November last year. I see the green neoprene slipper which she loved to fetch from the water whenever we went to the beach on Sauvie Island. I see emptiness where what was once the warmth I enjoyed in my home.

Mita has now gone away to my friend, Angie's family. Her 2 young kids love her to death and the entire family is really enjoying having her with them. They visited last week so that I could keep Mita for a few days and say goodbye. However, I requested they take her back since the transitions would be too confusing for her while she is getting adjusted to a new home.

In her new home..

For an entire year, I tried very hard to fight this eventuality. I hoped it wouldn't come down to this. However, when it became certain that I'd have to leave my home of 6 years, I knew it made better sense for me to find a new home for her in Portland rather than make her suffer the ordeal of moving to two new places. As new homes go, I couldn't think of a better family than Angie's for a loving dog like Mita.

When she was going away, the family piled into their car first. Mita tried to jump in but the floor of the vehicle was too high for her. Her hind legs struggled to get a footing and I had to stop laughing to lift her up. As the car drove away,  she stared back at me through the window, unsure of what was going on but trusting that I'd never send her in harm's way.

It pained me very much to see her go away. I know I can visit her anytime. I might be seeing her this weekend or sometime next week just to drop off the rest of her stuff and spend some time at her new home. However, it is just as painful as giving up your own child to another family. That poor dog has no idea what is going on so I feel bad that she is just being her affectionate self with everyone, trusting that every home she visits is a loving home.

Among the many lessons she has taught me,  the most important one is her belief in the goodness of all humans- that no one is innately cruel, selfish, unkind or mean if she greets them with a happy smile and a wagging tail. I am glad she's never seen the likes of people I've met who could easily destroy the faith she has.

We only had about a year together but I couldn't have imagined this past year without her giving me company night or day. Our daily walks at Washington Park, our visits to Noah's Arf pet wash, our play times at the dog park at Wallace Park, our training sessions at Happy-Go-Lucky, our nights in winter when I'd watch a movie while she curled up on my lap, our nights in spring when she'd get startled by a bad dream and I'd have to comfort her back to sleep, our walks in the rain when she'd spot a squirrel and pull so hard I'd nearly fall in a puddle, our walks down NW 23rd avenue when she'd bark her head off if I left her alone for a few minutes - these are some of the best memories I will cherish as I move away from a wonderful companion.

Jamison Park in the Pearl district

What a dog can give you is something only dog-owners will really know. Not all of us are fortunate enough to experience that. But think of that one person who made a difference to your life, even if they were only around briefly. Don't ever forget what a lasting impression they left on you.

Those memories will return on nights like tonight when I sit in loneliness,  in silence broken only by the sound of the clock.

Pining

As now I gather what lies around
Last autumn leaf falls off naked branch
His kisses I strip from thirsty lips
And seal them away in heart's chamber
His scent I inhale once again
Lest I forget what calm it brings
His touch I peel from my every pore
Warm embers for lonely nights
His heart! Alas! What shall I do?
Is it even mine to take?
How lovely a man I have to love!
How wretched my fate I must walk away...

Revelation

When he leaves, you struggle for reasons to delay
When minutes with him are worth the hours away
When thoughts of his quirks surface a while
When you wonder how next to make him smile
When you succumb to this sweetest of pains
When it consumes with a madness, no sense remains
When his every touch ignites a thousand flames
When morning kiss is sweeter than midnight play
When stoic heart swoons upon his mere sight
When distances loom to test your might
When you pray for a way to somehow stay
When beyond losing, there be no cruel fate
Do you know then?

Band of Brothers

Tonight, I said goodbye to the Portland Gay Men's Chorus.

Now that my move to the Boston area had become certain, it was time to start saying goodbyes to the many wonderful people I have been fortunate to meet in the Portland area. The chorus has always been an integral part of my life so I could not bring myself to simply convey my sentiments through an email. I needed to face these friends and tell them in person. They deserved it. I knew this was not going to be an easy task. How difficult it was going to become, I would have never anticipated.

I was late getting to rehearsal and I crept into the hall and occupied a seat in the last row of the Second Tenor section. The chorus was warming up with measures from "Marry Us"-one of my all-time favourite compositions from 'Naked Man'. There is a line in this piece which says, "We live and die like all Your sons, Marry us..Marry us today!". I would like to know if there is a god in any faith who cannot respect that. If the words aren't sufficient to melt your heart, perhaps this video from our brothers in the Heartland Men's Chorus (Kansas City, Missouri) will.

 The first half of rehearsal quickly came to an end after we practiced "How do I love thee, Let me count the ways" and "Hard Candy Christmas".  The pain and sorrow I felt grew unbearably. Somehow, it felt like these songs couldn't be more apt for the situation. I tried to focus on the music but tears kept clouding my eyes. I drew deep breaths and walked to the front of the hall when it was time to make announcements.

When I got my chance, I walked out and faced the group. Nearly 150 men smiled back at me and I felt that same sense of being overwhelmed which I felt when I first got introduced to the group.

I saw Ernest, one of the first friends I made who brought a bag of rice with a coin on the day I was moving into a new apartment. It was a tradition in his culture to bring prosperity in the new home.
I saw Richard and Carl. How many times had they invited me over to the many dinners and afternoon socials they hosted regularly?
I saw Matt, one of the kindest souls I have ever known.
I saw cheerful Kent, the chorus' resident Lost&Found who was always the last person to leave a concert hall and collect leftover items.
I saw Michael who took me to the Beth Israel Jewish temple for Yom Kippur besides several plays at Portland Center Stage.
I saw Aron who helped polish my resume diligently when I was searching for jobs 3 years ago.
I saw Lakin, my partner in texting crime during every rehearsal.
I saw Sid, my veritable Jewish 'mother' who was always brutally honest about things to make me look better and sound better.
I saw Tommy, who helped me pick up a couch and then drove all over town on that rainy day to find a place where we could dump it because it was unbearably stinky.

This was going to be very difficult.

"My name is Vikram Srinivasan and  I sing in the Second Tenor section. I've been with the chorus for 6 years now and this is actually the first time I have come forward to make an announcement. That's really sad..."

Polite laughter followed.

"What's also sad is that this may very well be the last announcement I make. "

The words started to choke in my throat and I had to pause frequently to collect myself.


"Unfortunately, the US government has decided that it is time for me to leave the country since my visa is expiring. My company isn't able to do anything about it. So I am moving to Boston for a new job. Pretty soon, I will be moving back to India."

"People say that I should be excited about going back to my family. But, you see, the truth is that this is also home right here. You guys are also my family. So I don't see how I can get excited about leaving this home really."

By now, I was really struggling. The love and affection I saw in their eyes unleashed a fresh slew of tears.

"I mean, I recall my audition 6 years ago when Bob said he was playing in a different key and I was too embarrassed to admit that I didn't know what a 'key' was! I remember sitting next to this handsome man who sang so beautifully that I thought, "Dear God, What did I get into?". That person was Joseph Pearce and he ended up becoming one of my closest friends in the chorus."

"I could go on about each of you but there's not enough Kleenex in this room for that. Before I go, I just want to say this. To the new members who have joined this term, Welcome! I hope you cherish this experience as much as I will. To the people who were in the chorus when I joined and the ones I've met afterwards, you have NO idea how much I owe you. I cannot even begin to say thanks."

"Should your travels bring you to India, I would be honoured to host you and show you around. I really hope our paths cross soon and I get to sing with you again. Until then, please know that you will all have a very special place in the heart of this Indian guy."

When I finished, I broke down. People told me later that the chorus stood up to applaud but I never saw that. I buried my face in a bear hug from Bob, our conductor, and wept.

Without a doubt, this is one of the finest group of people you will ever get to meet. When I first moved to Portland in 2006, I knew nobody. This chorus took me in as if they'd been waiting for my arrival. They showered me with so much love and kindness that I felt I'd just found a family of over 100 people. Through the years, I have shared laughter, tears, dates, heartbreaks and memories with them. These men have helped me move apartments, shop for amazing finds, plan fun activities when my parents visited, supported me in distress and given me confidence when I needed it most. I am posting my speech here to say thanks to the many members who were either absent tonight or have moved on.

As I stood next to Wayne, Bob took over the stage. He wiped his own tears and lightened the mood by narrating my audition story, showering compliments and promising that I'd return soon.  We then proceeded to welcome new members who had auditioned this term. The opening notes of the legendary "Never Ever" had never been difficult to sing before.

"Never will there be a moment ever
When we all will be together, never
Never such a moment, never will we look around and see these faces
All these faces never, will we hear these voices never, ever hear this sound!
No never, never will we have that first time, or this last time or just this time
Never get to live our lives all over ! Never! Ever!
Oh life will take us where it will! New beginnings! Ends!
Take each moment as a gift! 
Give it back again!"

A hundred times I had sung this before but tonight, I could only mouth the words. Their weight sunk in as Wayne whispered, "This song is for you too!".

Later at intermission, several people came over to hug me and wish me luck. Joseph offered a complimentary haircut before I left while Dave offered to make more ceramic coffee mugs. David offered networking ideas to reach out to the Boston Gay Men's Chorus. Chris wrote to ask me if there was anything at all the group could do - rally support, launch campaigns and help change immigration laws. 

I doubt I can ever truly convey my thanks for the love, strength, support, kindness and music which the chorus has given me. I also doubt I will ever meet such a fine group of individuals who create a positive, affirming community through fine music. If you should ever be so lucky to meet this group, grab the opportunity and see your life change.

As for me, Dolly's words will ring softly when Christmas comes along in Boston.

Vienna-Where elegance is an understatement

Where other cities strive to carve a name, she sits back and lets fame seek her. From her name to her history, character and culture, everything reeks of class and grandeur. She has given the world some of the finest emperors, musicians, psychologists, scientists, poets, artists, architects and writers which civilization has seen. Her beauty is charming and regal. Ladies and gents, welcome to Vienna - the city where elegance is cemented in every stone on her streets.

Sunil and I take our first steps in Vienna ('Wien' as it is known in the area) with much less grace however. The night train from Cologne took long and our co-passengers were so interesting that we barely got any sleep. Stepping out of Wien Westbahnhof Station on the morning of New Year's Eve, we trudge down Maria Hilferstrasse, lugging our fat suitcases. 

A short walk gets us to Hostel Ruthensteiner, our home for the next 3 days. To any traveler who wants to get an unique, no-frills European experience during their visit, I highly recommend staying in a hostel. Of course, make sure you do your research to find out about the hostel's ratings, reviews, location and safety features. A hostel stay may not compare to booking a romantic suite at the Ritz but it can be a wonderful experience in enjoying camaraderie, making new connections and getting the most out of your visit, especially if you are on a frugal budget. You can book a bed in a common area or private suite (slightly more expensive). Most private suites come with a bathroom and shower attached. Book in advance and you may be able to get a bed for just $15-$25/night. Breakfast is typically a large buffet with plenty of fresh options and usually at a surprisingly cheap price (~$3-$5). Small and large lockers are available for your valuables and luggage alike. At the front desk, borrow any guidebook you may need or get tips, suggestions and advice from people who really know the area. Often, hostels also arrange walking tours where you can meet other hostelers, cover several tourist attractions and have a guide you can trust. 

Interiors at the Ruthensteiner

Ruthensteiner does not disappoint us in any way. The interiors are cozy and painted bright yellow while the beds are clean and comfortable. There's a common area filled with couches, stuffed chairs and writing tables.  A piano waits for residents to tinkle ivories while board games stacked on shelves provide another distraction. There's a kitchen area where you can cook your own meals and a dining space leading out to a garden.

 

 

Eager to explore the city, we check in at the front desk for some sightseeing tips. The friendly Brazilian girl at the registration desk is happy to help us plan our day and make sure we get to the New Year festivities happening in the city that night.  Our first stop is to continue down on Maria Hilferstrasse to the Schonbrunn Palace.

There are palaces all over the world and then there's the Schloss Schonbrunn ('Beautiful Spring Palace'), the mother of them all. How else do you describe a magnificent Rococco structure housing 1441 rooms and set on sprawling grounds of 1.2 sq.kilometers? Did I mention that this was the summer palace of the Hapsburg emperors? Yep, not their permanent residence, just summer home. As Sunil and I take in this magnificent sight, I remark to myself that the Hapsburg royalty could have slept in a different room each night for 10 summers in a row and still have more rooms waiting to be used. Life must have been tough for a Hapsburg king.

The palace was completed in the 17 century and its gardens opened to the public in 1779. The splendidly manicured lawns boast a magnificent fountain, maze of hedges and a small zoo.  Inside the palace, a tour takes you through the private chambers of 

• Empress Maria Theresa, the only female Hapsburg ruler in the entire dynasty
• Some of the 16 children she bore for her husband Emperor Francis II including Queen Marie Antoinette of France. The children also included Franz Karl, whose grandson Franz Ferdinand's assasination triggered World War I. 
• Franz Karl's son, Franz Josef' whose wife, Elisabeth ('Sisi'), has drawn the fascination of every visitor who steps into these royal chambers. 

 While pictures are not allowed on the tour, the images that remain best imprinted in my memory are from the life and times of Sisi, wife of Emperor Franz Josef and Empress of Austria, Croatia, Bohemia and Hungary. A woman of exceptional beauty (known in particular for her long tresses), Sisi's life is the tragic tale of a free-spirited young girl, married off at an early age into royalty and subsequently enchained by the shackles of court life. She withdrew from Vienna's royal life as much as she could. Her poetry was as impressive as her skills in horseback riding, fencing and other extreme outdoor sports. Subjected to the confines of orthodox royalty, Sisi's mother-in-law and aunt, Empress Sophie, dominated every aspect of Sisi's married life, almost entirely destroying her spirit. Her first 2 children (both girls) were taken away at birth by Sophie who felt that young Sisi made for a silly mother. Sisi's only involvement in courtly affairs was when she accompanied the Emperor on his travels. The trips got her out of Austria's stifling society and on one of these trips to Hungary, she struck a chord with the Hungarian people, championing for their liberation and winning their admiration instantly. Naturally, Sophie scorned such efforts from her daughter-in-law, making her feel even more unwanted.  A terrible tragedy occurred with Sisi's son, Prince Rudolf, getting killed at the age of 32. This drove her into severe depression and she never fully recovered. 

Sisi's beauty has been the subject of admiration and criticism for decades. While she chose to not cover her flawless features with cosmetics, she certainly had elaborate rituals using natural products to help preserve her beauty. Here are some facts we find out when we visit her Salon in the palace:

• Her slender figure was unnaturally too slender and always at 50kg.
• It took over 3 hours to care for her hair every day-so long that it could envelope her entire body. Every other week, her hair was washed with crushed eggs and cognac. All activities were cancelled on those days.
• She slept with raw veal and crushed strawberries on her face as a natural mask.
• Her bed had no soft pillows. She slept on a metal bed frame to retain her posture.
• While her morning bath was in cold water, her evening bath was in olive oil.
• After she turned 32, she refused to sit for portraits so that her beauty could be preserved for posterity.

I wonder whose head rolled on the day she noticed her first wrinkle.

Her later years were filled with pain, distance from society, poetry and long voyages around the world. During one such trip to Geneva, she was stabbed by a young Italian anarchist who had originally plotted to kill a Duke who had been visiting. The incident turned fatal and the empress who spent her life supporting the cause of liberation of the masses was ironically killed by a commoner. While the tour takes us through room after room filled with glittering treasures, exquisite jewels, gowns and crowns, you cannot help but feel Sisi's ghost following you everywhere as melancholy hangs in the air.

Sachertorte

A tour of the palace quarters is a must for any visitor but make sure you have enough time to explore the grounds as well. Stopping at the cafe in house for some well deserved lunch, Sunil and I are tempted to try the Sachertorte - Vienna's most famous pastry first prepared for royalty. This is a dense chocolate cake in 2 layers with a filling of apricot jam. The recipe is so special that outside of Austria, only 1 location in the world (in Italy) can offer you this royal dessert.

As we savour this delectable treat, a group of kids dressed as the Magi enter the cafe to sing carols. I have heard legendary stories about the magical voices of the Vienna Boys Choir and I can only imagine that every child in this musically rich city is gifted with an angelic voice. But when the kids begin with their first carol, I have to dig my finger nails into the table. In all fairness, I have heard cats moan in synch better while Sunil begs that they all pick one key together. However, the peach that he is, he digs into his wallet for a few euros as they move from table to table ringing their bell while I claw at him, hissing in Tamil that our euros are precious.

The afternoon sun warms our cheeks when we step out into the cold and explore the gardens. It takes us over 20 minutes to walk towards the Gloriette, a building constructed atop a hill in the form of a pavilion. There you find an inscription stating that the gloriette was dedicated to the Just War, a war which lead to peace.

Schloss Schonbrunn

Sunil at the Gloriette with the palace in the distance

The Gloriette

 

We rest our weary feet at the top of the hill and take in the impressive sight in front of us. Dusk is settling in quickly as the sun goes down and the year itself fades away. The city of Vienna starts sparkling with bright lights in preparation for New Year's Eve. In the distance, Schloss Schunbrunn's yellow walls are arresting. On our way back, we spend some time at the Christmas Market on the palace grounds and enjoy hot chocolate. In Vienna, hot beverages are served in mugs, not disposable cups. You stand and enjoy your drink, giving it the dignity it deserves instead of sipping it on the go. For this, you pay a deposit for each mug returned when you bring the mug back. I really wasn't kidding about the elegance part.

After we return to our hostel, we try to plan out our activities for the night. Ringing in the new year in a city like Vienna has us totally excited and we quickly map out the locations in the heart of the city where festivities are going to be held. We decide to head to Volksgarten to watch fireworks but as we walk down Ringstrasse to get there, we stop to take in a dazzling sight.

The Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera)

The Wiener Staatsoper is Vienna's famous opera house. Members of the Vienna Philharmonic are picked from its orchestra. The opera house is one of the best and busiest in the world, producing over 60 operas every year.  On this festive night, the Opera House is magnificently decorated with lights. Limos pull up at all of its entrances and Vienna's elite arrive decked in their finest tuxedos, gowns and diamonds. On one side, a large screen has been set up on the side of the street to telecast the night's special performance for New Year's Eve - Johann Strauss' famous opera, Die Fledermaus. Over 60 chairs are arranged for the general public but the crowd outside is much larger. 

It is here that our ultimate European experience happens. As the opera opens with its first act, I flip through the pages of my Rick Steves' guide book to find out that frequently, concerts offer standing room tickets which are discounted. Considering that this is a special performance, there is every chance that the house has been sold out months in advance. Moreover, dressed in GAP sweaters and casual jeans,  Sunil and I are hardly eligible to rub elbows with Vienna's elite. Still, how often are we going to find ourselves in Vienna on a night like this? Deciding that no one in Austria is really going to give a damn if we embarrass ourselves, we step into the Opera House to check for standing room tickets.

The usher is dressed better than we are but she is friendly and polite. To out utter shock and amazement, we find that tickets for the standing room will be sold after the first act. What's more? They are priced at 4 euros (~ $5)! To get to watch the finest opera performance in the world in the finest opera house in the world for $5 on New Year's Eve is the sort of experience you can never ever forget! We dash out to grab some gyros at a food cart and then pop in several mints to hide the smell of onions. After all, we are going to the opera now!

Inside the Staatsoper

The interiors of the Staatsoper are just as magnificent as its exteriors. The atrium alone reeks of elegance while the main performance hall seats over 2000 people. The performance stretches for nearly 3 hours which isn't fun if you are standing the entire time. However, for the price we paid, we aren't going to complain!

The main atrium

Sumptuous ceiling of the Staatsoper

 Shortly before midnight, we file out of the Opera House tired but exhilarated. By this time, Ringstrasse, the city's arterial loop, has swollen with revelers. We quickly join the crowds stepping from the world of the elite into Party Central. The crowds drift towards Volksgarten where thousands gather with party hats, champagne and horns to ring in the new year as fireworks set the night sky ablaze with brilliant colors. 

 

When we stumble back to our hostel, the clock strikes 3am. Our first day in Vienna has been fantastic to say the very least. And there is still so much more to discover...